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A Purrfect Start for first time cat owners

Just got a new moggy for Christmas?

Well then, congratulations on your new companion!

This article is for first time cat owners, so if you’re a moggy veteran then you may find you know most of this already. Still I picked up an idea or two? [Ed.]

To be at their best, cats have some basic needs; providing for them will help ensure your cats long-term health and welfare. If these needs are not met, your cat may feel stressed, which can affect both his/her health and behaviour.

Growing cats need space, indoors and out.

Cats seem to prefer having their own space, to feel like they are ‘in control’ of their surroundings, and to choose the changes they want to make. To help you ‘get off on the right foot’ with your new cat, we have provided descriptions of what an ‘ideal’ house might include. Your cat might not need all these features to get along, but making your house more cat friendly will ensure that you and your new cat enjoy each other’s company for years to come.

Cats can be quite social with other pets and people, just as long as they can control when and where the socializing happens! To understand your home from your new cats point of view, it might help to think of an honored guest arriving from an exotic foreign land. Providing a room or other space she can call her own, complete with food and water, a bed (a cat carrier with a soft pad inside is a good choice), a litter box, a scratching and/or climbing post, a window to look out of, and some toys is ideal. And just as our dining table isn’t near the bathroom or bedroom, the food and water bowls and bed should be placed away from the litter box. Give your cat a few days to get used to these surroundings, and to get the sense that this space is a safe haven. You can spend some time alone with her in the room so you can get to know each other, and so you can provide profuse praise for using the toys, litter box, and scratching post.

Your cats basic needs include:

  • 1. Some ‘personal space’.
  • 2. A bed.
  • 3. Food and water bowls.
  • 4. A Litter box.
  • 5. A scratching/climbing post.
  • 6. Toys.

Toys can be as simple as crumpled paper balls, paper bags to explore, cardboard boxes, or a toilet paper tube. Please don’t use string, foil or buttons, as they can present hazards.

If you don’t know already then it would be good to appreciate that cats do not respond to force. Reprimands only work if you catch your cat ‘in the act’. Punishment that follows an action by more than a few seconds won’t stop him from doing it again, and may even cause him to be afraid of you or the surroundings. It may even cause him to try to defend him/her self (those teeth and claws are there for a reason!)

If you do catch you cat making a mistake, it is better for both of you to create a distraction by making a loud noise or throwing something (NOT at the cat!) that will attract its attention, but not toward you. If the cat associates the distraction as coming from you she’ll just learn to do it when you’re not around. As soon as the cat is distracted, you can take her to a location where the behavior is ‘ok’, and praise her for doing it there. As with all honored guests, cats do respond to praise for good ‘actions/deeds’ such as this.

Cute Kittens

Cute Kittens need training

So to state the case: ‘Cats respond to praise/redirection; they DON’T respond to force.

Once comfortable with the new space, the cat can be offered the opportunity to introduce herself to the rest of the house and its occupants. Remember, guests often prefer
to get acquainted on their terms, so don’t rush this. When ready, they’ll become a part of the household. When this happens, another set of food and water bowls, litter box, and scratching/climbing post can be put elsewhere in the house. If the cat shows a preference for these, the ones in her room can be removed (litter box last!), although her bed should be left there for her continued use as a “retreat”. Place the food and water bowls, and the litter box, in convenient (separate) locations that still give the cat some privacy while eating, drinking or ‘going to the bathroom’. They should be placed away from appliances and air ducts that could come on unexpectedly, and located such that another animal (or human!) cannot sneak up on the cat while she uses them. To keep them appealing to the cat, food and water should be fresh, and the litter box ‘scooped’ every day.

If you do want to offer a new type of food or litter, put it in a separate container next to the familiar one so the cat can decide whether or not to change.

You can gently rub the area between the eyes and ears with a cotton ball to capture some of the cat’s scent, and then rub this on places you want to attract the cat to. (a new one on me, [Ed.])

Location matters! Placing your cat’s food, water and litter in convenient, quiet locations will make them more attractive to her! Giving the cat something to scratch will help ensure that she can do her thing without damaging your things. Try to choose something that has a texture and position (flat or upright) similar to the cat’s initial targets. If your cat stretches up to scratch, provide something that is about the same height. Put the object close to where you’ve seen the cat scratch, and be sure it is secure so she won’t be startled by it moving unexpectedly. Just as you’ll expect by now, praising her profusely when you see her use it will let her know that this is hers to use.

Providing places to climb and look out of windows are important to keep indoor cats healthy and happy. Putting catnip or the cat’s scent on the scratching/climbing post can also make it more attractive.

Be sure to see your veterinarian regularly. In addition to providing preventative health care through regular checkups, they also can help you troubleshoot any ‘issues’ before they become problems.

These suggestions are only intended to get you off to a good start. More information is available from your veterinarian, pet food company ‘kitten care’ kits and web sites (such as this one). You also can go to the indoor cat initiative website at https://www.nssvet.org/ici/index.html for more information and links to other aspects of cat care.

Suggestions courtesy of The Ohio State University Veterinary Hospital with modifications by the Ed.

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Persa

The ‘Persa’ descends from the Turkish Angora. The first specimens were imported into Italy from Persia around 1700; a century later, the breed was taken to France and England, where it was perfected with the addition of blood from Angoras, obtaining a silkier fur and multiplying the coat colors.

Persa

Fully Grown Persa
Photograph: Chosovi

The Head of the Persa is broad, rounded and solid with protruding cheeks. The ears are small and well-spaced with long hair tufts. Jaw is generally thick and nose short.
Body is compact, it should be 40 to 50 cm. long, with another 25 to 30 cm. of tail. It will be around 30 cm. high. Robust bone structure. Short, muscular limbs.

The tail is magnificently furry, ending in a tuft which provides weight to keep it hanging down.

The colour of Persian cats:
Persians are classified into three groups:

  • solid colour
  • various colours
  • patterned
  • Solid colours:
    Black, with orange or copper eyes.
    White, with blue eyes (the only Persians with blue eyes; they are deaf), orange eyes, and mismatched eyes.
    Blue, with orange or copper eyes.
    Cream, with orange or copper eyes.
    Red, very rare; it is hard to get hold of. It should have no stripes, and copper eyes.
  • Several colours:
    Two-colour, black and white, blue and white, red and white, white and cream. its paws, legs, underside of the body and muzzle are white; upside down V-shaped patch over its eyes, which are copper.
    Two-colour Van: patches only on its head, legs and tail. Copper eyes.
    Tortoiseshell, black, red and cream patches on its coat. Orange or copper eyes. Females only, the very rare males of this colour are sterile. Two-colour males are used for mating.
    Tortoiseshell with white: as above with white. Females only, males sterile.
    Calico: as the tortoiseshell is black with red and white patches, the calico is white with black and red patches. Copper eyes. Females only.
    Diluted Calico: white with blue and cream patches. Females only.
    Blue cream: neither should be predominant. Females only.
  • Patterned
    The pattern can be of three types: Classic Tabby, Mackerel Tabby, and Patched Tabby.
    Brown Tabby: sandy coat with black stripes.
    Silver Tabby: light silver coat with black stripes.
    Red Tabby: bright red coat with darker stripes.
    Cameo Tabby: cream coat and red stripes.
    Blue Tabby: ivory coat with bluish-grey stripes.
    Brown Patched Tabby: coppery brown coat with black markings and cream patches.
    Silver Patched Tabby: silver coat with black markings and red or cream patches.
    Chinchilla: Snow-white caot tipped in black on the back, hips, head, ears and tail. Green eyes. Shaded silver: a dark Chinchilla. Green or orange eyes.
    Smoke black: black coat silver-shaded on the sides and hips, with white undercoat and black mask and paws. Orange or copper eyes.
    Smoke blue: the same, with a bluish-grey coat. Copper eyes.
    Red Cameo: the same, with a red coat. Copper eyes.
    Smoked tortoiseshell: black with white undercoat with red and cream patches. Copper eyes. Females only.
Persa Kitten

Persa Kitten

The Coat of a Persa is thick and silky, with collar ‘ruff’. The paws are also unusually furry. It is recommended to brush the coat with a strong bristled brush (metal brushes could break the fur) and to comb every day from six weeks of age. The source article recommended every fortnight, administering a malt or paraffin preparation orally to prevent the formation of trichobezoars (hairballs). Please check with your Vet before doing this.

The Persa has a peacful and docile temperament. It is an intelligent creature and is not generally of a hunting nature.

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Merry Christmas one and all

Merry Christmas to all our readers ~ from Norm and the Gang.

Old video now defunct …so here below is ‘We wish you a Merry Christmas’
and if it’s late December then we do!

Moggyblog will be one year old on January 1st 2008

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Japanese Bobtail

The Japanese Bobtail has an unusual ‘bobbed’ tail more closely resembling the tail of a rabbit than that of an ordinary feline. The short tail is a cat body type genetic mutation caused by the expression of a recessive gene (or so it says here :yes:). Thus, so long as both parents are bobtails, all kittens born to a litter will have bobtails as well. Unlike the Manx and other cat breeds, where genetic disorders are common to tailless or stumpy-tails, no such problem exists with the Japanese Bobtail.

The Japanese Bobtail is a small domestic cat native to Japan and Southeast Asia, though it is now found throughout the world. The breed has been known in Japan for centuries, and there are many stories, as well as pieces of ancient art, featuring it.

Japanese Bobtail

Japanese Bobtail – Thought to be originally from China!

Japanese bobtails may have almost any color, but “Mi-ke” (三毛, mike?, literally “three fur”, and composed of red, black, and white coloring) or bi-colors are especially favoured by the Japanese. Much like any other breed, the colors may be arranged in any number of patterns, with van and calico being common among purebred cats, though other colorations are also accepted.
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History
The earliest written evidence of cats in Japan indicates that they arrived from China or Korea at least 1,000 years ago. In 1602, Japanese authorities decreed that all cats should be set free to help deal with rodents threatening the silk-worms. Buying or selling cats was illegal, and from then on, bobtailed cats lived on farms and in the streets. Japanese Bobtails thus became the “street cats” of Japan.

The Japanese Bobtail is mentioned in Kaempfer’s Japan. First published in London in 1701/02, it is the first book written by a Westerner about the flora, fauna, and landscape of Japan. Engelbert Kaempfer, a German doctor, wrote: “there is only one breed of cat that is kept. It has large patches of yellow, black and white fur; its short tail looks like it has been bent and broken. It has no mind to hunt for rats and mice but just wants to be carried and stroked by women.”

The maneki-neko (“beckoning cat”), a Japanese Bobtail seated with one paw raised, is considered a good-luck charm. A maneki-neko statue is often found in the front of stores or homes. In 1968 the late Elizabeth Freret imported the first three Japanese Bobtails to the United States from Japan. Japanese Bobtails were accepted for Championship status in CFA (Cat Fanciers Association) in 1976.

Legend
There is a legend in Japan about why the Japanese Bobtail lost its tail. It states that a cat was warming itself too close to a fire, and set its tail on fire. It then ran through the town, burning many buildings to the ground. As punishment, the Emperor decreed that all cats should have their tails cut off.

Bobtails could have also surged after the legend of the bakeneko, or nekomata, a cat that when its tail grew too much, became a double-tail, and the cat would get powers like talking, walking on its back legs, and shapeshifting. The nekomata could cause massive disturbances and even resurrect dead people. Japanese people may have started cutting their cat’s tails to avoid them to become bakeneko.

Breed Standard

Head: The head should form an equilateral triangle. (Not including ears)
Ears: Large, upright, set wide apart but at right angles to the head and looking as if alert.
Muzzle: Fairly broad and round neither pointed nor blunt.
Eyes: Large, oval rather than round. They should not bulge out beyond the cheekbone or the forehead.
Body: Medium in size, males larger than females. Long torso, lean and elegant, showing well developed muscular strength. Also balance is very very important.
Neck: Not too long and not too short, in proportion to the length of the body.
Legs: Long, slender, and high. The hind legs longer than the forelegs.
Paws: Oval. Toes: five in front and four behind.
Coat (Shorthair): Medium length, soft and silk.
Coat (Longhair): Length medium-long to long, texture soft and silky gradually lengthening toward the rump.
Tail: The tail must be clearly visible and is made up of one or more curves.

The Japanese Bobtail is a recognised breed by all major registering bodies: CFA, TICA, FIFe; Shorthair only with the exception of GCCF (UK).

Japanese Bobtails usually have litters of three to four kittens with newborns that are unusually large compared to other breeds. They are active earlier, and walk earlier. Affectionate and generally sweet-tempered, they enjoy supervising household chores and baby-sitting. They are active, intelligent, talkative cats with a well-defined sense of family life. Their soft voices are capable of nearly a whole scale of tones; some people say they sing. Since they adore human companionship they almost always speak when spoken to, and sometimes carry on “conversations” with their owners. Because of their human-oriented personality they are easy to teach tricks and enjoy learning things like walking on a harness and lead, and playing fetch.

A similar breed of cat is in development in the United States as breeders attempt to perfect the “American Bobtail Cat” that would have a tail half the length of other breeds, though there has not been definitive progress in getting a new breed recognized yet.

Eye Discolouration (Ocular heterochromia)

While rare, Japanese Bobtails, especially predominantly white specimens, are more likely than other breeds to express heterochromia, or differing iris colors. One eye will be blue while the other is yellow (though in Japan, blue is referred to as silver while yellow is referred to as gold). This trait is popular and kittens displaying this “odd-eye” feature are usually more expensive.

Information From Wikipedia.

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Javanese

This ancient, rare breed was originally found in Japan and throughout most of southeast Asia. It is not a native breed in Java nor Indonesia. Genetically they are part of the long-haired Oriental genus. The term “Javanese cat” was coined by a Helen Smith of ‘MerryMews’ Cattery in the 1950’s. The name is derived from the tradition of using the names of the countries and islands of south-east Asia for Oriental cat breeds.

Javanese have a long, silky coat, that comes in a variety of colors. These cats are ranked among the most intelligent and affectionate breeds of cat. It is said they require companionship and stimulation to remain healthy.

A Javanese showing her unique tail

Photograph: unknown

These long, lanky cats have very sleek and powerful legs that make them very adept at running and leaping. They are generally very playful pets but they do however have a tendency to become overweight if they do not receive adequate exercise. Javanese are also quite vocal, and most will “talk” for no particular reason.

Javanese Cat

Javanese – Are elegant and intelligent cats

Photograph: unknown

Javanese have a unique tail which is made up of extremely furry strands. The Javanese has a distinctive oriental look that is given by high cheekbones and slightly almond-shaped eyes. This exquisite cat comes in a rainbow of colors and coat patterns in both long-haired and short-haired varieties.

Javanese cats are referred to by show cat fanciers as colourpoint cats: showing odd or “rare” colors; such as red or white, or patternation; tabby and tortie. As with many show cats the Javanese has common genetic defects (and are shared with the “Balinese Cat” and the “Siamese Cat”). These include: deafness, joint issues, early-onset arthritis, hip displacement and cross-eye.

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Turkish Angora

The Turkish Angora (Turkish: Ankara Kedisi) breed are one of the ancient, naturally occurring cat breeds, having originated in central Turkey, in the Ankara region.

These cats often have a white, silky, medium-long length coat, no undercoat and fine bone structure. There seems to be a connection between Ankara Cats and Persians (see below), and the Turkish Angora is also a distant cousin of the Turkish Van. Although they are known for their shimmery white coat, currently there are more than twenty varieties including black, blue, reddish fur. They come in tabby and tabby-white, along with smoke varieties, and are in every color other than pointed, lavender, and cinnamon (all of which would indicate breeding to an outcross).

Turkish Angora

The Turkish Angora – A blue eye can often indicate that the cat is deaf!

Eyes may be blue, green or amber, or even one blue and one amber. The W gene responsible for white coat and blue eye is closely related to the hearing ability, and presence of a blue eye can indicate the cat is deaf to the side the blue eye is located. However, a great many blue and odd-eyed white cats have normal hearing, and even deaf cats lead a very normal life if indoors.
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Ears are pointed and large, eyes are almond shaped and the head is massive with a two plane profile. Another characteristic is the tail, which is often kept parallel to the back.

Turkish Angora is an intelligent, adorable and a very curious breed which is very active throughout their life-span. Some Turkish Angoras will bathe with their owners (another link to the cousin Turkish Van cat, which is known as “the swimming cat”). They also tend to bond with their owners and try to be the center of attention, often doing their part in conversations. They usually don’t like to be held for long, but like to stay in human presence, happily playing for hours.

Like all domestic cats, Turkish Angoras descended from the African wildcat. The mountainous regions of Eastern Anatolia isolated cats brought by traders from Egypt, and through inbreeding and natural selection they developed into longhaired breeds like the Turkish Van and the Turkish Angora.

Longhaired cats were imported to Britain and France from Asia Minor, Persia and Russia as early as the late 1500s, though there are indications that they appeared in Europe as early as 1300s due to the Crusades. The Turkish Angora was used, almost to the point of extinction, to improve the coat on the Persian (cat). The Turkish Angora was recognized as a distinct breed in Europe by the early 1600s.

In 1917, The Government of Turkey in conjunction with the Ankara Zoo began a meticulous breeding program to protect and preserve what they considered a national treasure, pure white Turkish Angoras with blue and amber eyes. The program continues today. The zoo particularly prized odd-eyed Angoras (ie. Turkish Angoras with one blue eye and one amber eye). The Zoo has its own cat facility which houses the white Turkish Angoras for its breeding program.

Turkish Angora, which was most recently brought to the United States in 1963, was accepted as a championship pedigreed breed in 1973 by the Cat Fanciers’ Association. However, until 1978 only white Angoras were recognized. Today, all North American registries accept the Turkish Angora in many colors and patterns. While numbers are still relatively small, the gene pool and base of fanciers are growing.

In the Turkish Angora, an autosomal recessive hereditary ataxia is found. The kittens affected by this ataxia do not learn to move and die young. The genetic cause of this ataxia is not yet known. Another genetic illness known to the breed is HCM], which is an autostomal dominant gene wich affect many other breeds (from Maine Coons to Persians).

Many Thanks to Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Main_Page